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Glass heat beds

Started by trebor, April 05, 2018, 05:05:03 pm

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Wheres a good place to get borosilicate glass cut ? Is this the same glass as woodburner glass ?


I just bought a pre-cut sheet from Amazon. £7 or something


If I cover all of the bed its 328 x 328mm  :cry I did find one chap on ebay does 330 x 330mm  at near £30  :sweating: :cry :frantic: :o


On reflection I think I got a bit of a bargain, and I didn't pay delivery because it was an Amazon Prime item, and im a member. Also it was a much smaller size. £30 for a 330mm2 piece of genuine Borosilicate glass isn't actually too bad.

You could try places like:

Or alternatively try your luck with standard toughened glass that any decent glazier can cut to size for you. Shouldn't be more than £10-15.

Personally I'd pay the extra for borosilicate glass though.


How do you hold the glass down, tape, clips, is it best to be able to remove it easy ?


I think most people want to remove the glass often so they can get the prints off easier without upsetting the level of the bed. It's also handy to have 2 sheets so you can get printing quickly again whilst the just-printed model cools.

I hold mine down with small bulldog clips, but other people use plastic printed clips (I'm thinking of going down that route soon), lay the glass on square thermal compound pads, or install printed corner braces with screw tighteners that hold the glass.

From my experience bulldog clips hold the glass down super firmly and aid heat transfer. But if the glass is warped at all, over time the heat bed can become warped to the shape of the glass too. Something to be aware of. Bulldog clips also have to be carefully positioned so that they don't get in the way, or get caught by, the extruder nozzle etc.


Cheers, I will make do with Onesheet of glass for the time being till my pocket recovers.


April 06, 2018, 03:37:14 pm #7 Last Edit: April 06, 2018, 03:39:10 pm by shawdreamer
personally, I never got the reliability from glass I got from other methods I tried.

I never could see the point in adding another layer to the bed that only made the heater have to work harder to get your bed temp up and mucking with your levels, its not uncommon to get two pieces of glass from the same supplier and find they vary in thickness by as little as 0.2mm (which is more than enough to mess with a decent first layer).

get yourself a Mk3 Alu heater (£10 on ebay), flip it silver side up and give it a layer of Kapton (£12 from Banggood for a 200mm wide roll) then print directly onto the heater alu surface, Its what I do with my geeeetech pro B which came with a mk2b heatbed and glass stock, disperses heat more even than glass, heats up and cools down pretty fast too, Ive been running mine that way for about two years now.

upload image lossless
Geeetech Prusa i3 pro-B (ABS Workhorse)
Pultur Prusa (my own design)
Poltur XL (my own "MUST BE BIGGER" design)
Poltur XL v.2 (my own "MUST BE BIGGER STILL, MUST USE EXTRUSION" design)


Unless you're unlucky and buy from a poor supplier/manufacturer its unlikely you'll get a variance in thickness of 0.2mm on a small 20-30cm squared sheet of glass.  In general I'd suggest the level variance can be closer to 0.05mm which doesn't cause any issue to the first layer.

I've had nothing but excellent results from using 3mm borosilicate glass (coated with hairspray or a light coating of waterbased purple glue stick).  For me it's been cheap, it's easy to clean, it has no issues whatsoever with heat transfer from the heated bed, it's easy to remove and swap for a new sheet, I never have to adjust my bed after swapping out sheets, it cools quickly, it's strong and level and easy to use.  Just my experience.

I definitely like your suggesting though S.D. and it's probably cheaper for Trebor than the £30 glass sheets.  Looks cool too.   :cool:


How long does it last before you have to replace the Kapton tape ? I just noticd the cheap tape spelt Kopton  :shrug: any good ?


Kapton layer lasts aslong as its isnt ripped, such like if your nozzle height isnt correctly calibrated and it crashes quite heavily into your bed and scrapes along it (which tbf is much the case with any print surface), for example the layer of tape your seeing in the above pictures has been on that bed for over a 100 prints now and is still going strong.

I use Kapton on all my printers as it by far gives me the most reliable performance with PLA and ABS and you may have noticed I dont exactly limit myself to simple easy print jobs so it gets given a good run for its money :laugh:.

yes it does mean that you cant whip the print surface off after printing but there's ways I created to make that possible still and I use on my larger Printer, its listed in this thread:-

As for "Kopton tape"..... erm....... sounds dodgy to me :rofl:

the roll from BG currently costs £14 but gives you 100ft of 200mm wide tape and is of as good a quality as I ever found elsewhere, which means potentially months of printing depending how often you like slamming your nozzle into your bed :hmm:
Geeetech Prusa i3 pro-B (ABS Workhorse)
Pultur Prusa (my own design)
Poltur XL (my own "MUST BE BIGGER" design)
Poltur XL v.2 (my own "MUST BE BIGGER STILL, MUST USE EXTRUSION" design)



Sorry for the Caps cat has ran across the keyboard and TBH I just can't be arsed to re type it all


aye wedo3dprinting is quite handy for that sorta stuff, a little tip though, once youve had a browse through their site and found what your after, have a quick look at the ebay store too as Ive found on a couple of things Ive had from them the price in their ebay store has turned out to be notably cheaper than their actual website.

think its just a case of whoever's in charge of updating their ebay site is a little more meticulous than the person doing their home site, nothing worth complaining about when it saves you a couple of quid though  ::)
Geeetech Prusa i3 pro-B (ABS Workhorse)
Pultur Prusa (my own design)
Poltur XL (my own "MUST BE BIGGER" design)
Poltur XL v.2 (my own "MUST BE BIGGER STILL, MUST USE EXTRUSION" design)

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