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i3 bearingless X & Z axis design

Started by shawdreamer, March 14, 2018, 10:24:12 am

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shawdreamer

just finished doing some final touches to my bearingless conversion on my PolturXL and publishing them, however all the designs are also applicable for use on any i3 prusa type printer so feel free to wander over to my thingiverse and grab the STL's if there any use to anyone.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2823110
Geeetech Prusa i3 pro-B (ABS Workhorse)
Pultur Prusa (my own design)
Poltur XL (my own "MUST BE BIGGER" design)
Poltur XL v.2 (my own "MUST BE BIGGER STILL, MUST USE EXTRUSION" design)
https://www.thingiverse.com/shawdreamer/designs

shawdreamer

and while Im at it.....

my magnetic printbed mod...

4x ABS printed standoff spacers attached to each corner of my original 200x300 printbed using high temp tape.

a couple of layers of heat insulating emergency blanket ontop of that (has to be spongy so cant use cork or similar), 200x200 silicone heat pad ontop of the blanket (can be double sided down but it shouldnt really need it once the upper plate go's on)

4x pieces of magnetic tape double sided to the top of the standoffs





then I simply drop in my new 200x300 Stainless steel print surface with a fresh layer of Kapton and presto, the plate sandwichs the heatpad while the soft insulation cushion and insulates while pressing the pad up against the plate without need for adhering it.




... a quick and easy mod that now gives me a easy to remove print surface that makes cleaning, re-taping, swapping etc a absolute doddle ::)

ontop of that as its a steel plate and not ALU the same magnetic strips/sheet that hold it down on each corner to the bed can also be used to hold varying additional print surfaces to its top, for example:

PrintBite



back coated with a magnetic sheet...



and dropped onto bed were it locks down nice and solid without need for any clamping or afixing of any sort...




and of course I dont need to remove the original Kapton either, the magnetic sheet also doesnt damage the surface.

and finally as I myself was even skeptical of whether the whole thing could transmit heat efficiently when I first tried it...








and the best bit..... you dont need to wait for the bed to cool to get your part off, If your printing onto the kapton surface you can just take the whole plate off and set it aside away from the printer were it'll cool faster (and slot in a fresh plate to continue printing if your in a rush etc), or if your printing onto printbite or pei etc you can just pull off the magnetic backed print surface and give it a quick flex to pop off the parts.






quick, easy and no waiting for cooling down and heating up repeatedly :wack0

ps, been running this setup for 3-4 days now without issue, the above "bearingless" parts were all printed using it and their all spot on so Im satisfied its a proven enough mod to present to the world :laugh:
Geeetech Prusa i3 pro-B (ABS Workhorse)
Pultur Prusa (my own design)
Poltur XL (my own "MUST BE BIGGER" design)
Poltur XL v.2 (my own "MUST BE BIGGER STILL, MUST USE EXTRUSION" design)
https://www.thingiverse.com/shawdreamer/designs

trebor

I'm trying to get my head round what you've done, is that new silicone heat pad fitted to the topside of your bed instead of it going underneath ?


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