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Seriously excited!

Started by nate80, February 22, 2018, 12:51:44 am

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nate80

Yeah, it really is proving to be excellent.  ::)  It just works so well.

I've done a handful of prints now. 5 or so test prints, a couple replacement parts and I just finished an overnighter. I've been trialing prusacontrol and slic3r pe (both new to me as I've always used Cura) and the quality of finish is fantastic. Even when using cheap filament that strings and gloops on my other printers the prusa makes it look effortless. Hardly any stringing and very little dirt left round the nozzle.

Such a good idea to use it for model train parts. I bet they look great and save a ton of money compared to buying hornby stuff! Have you designed any of your own stuff?

Thanks for the heads up about petg on the bed surface. I kinda discovered it's stickiness after a test print that was tough to fully remove and left small bubbles in the sticker. I heated it up and fortunately the pei sticker flattened out again. Blue tape on one side sounds a good idea.

Does the Pinda probe recognise the height of the blue tape OK when the steel sheet is used on either side? No nozzle / bed crashing?

I'd like to buy the promised powder coated pei sheet from prusa, but it seems it's still not available.

I did the latest firmware very first thing after finishing the build. I love the way the nozzle moves into position for filament changes.  ~~  My kit came with the olf extruder cooling fan piece and a couple other parts have been changed since mine was shipped. I jut fitted everything in the box, but I plan to print a full set of spares including all the newer pieces and fit them soon.

Have you got the newer extruder fan shroud etc? Does it make a noticeable difference do you think?

I use ipa between each print too. I try to only use acetone when absolutely needed as I read it removes the pei coating on the steel sheet. Not sure how quick it thins it enough to affect print adhesion though. From your experience it sounds like it's not a big problem?

Id like to see a picture of your led light upgrade.  ~~ I've been building an enclosure which has lights in it, so I probably won't go that route but I bet it looks cool.

My experience and opinion seems very similar to yours. The pip of filament is a small pain and I sit there with a pair of tweezers until the print gets going.  ;)  When it does get going it's lovely to be able to sit back and relax rather than watching it like a hawk (maybe slight exaggeration  :laugh:) like I have to with my other printers.

The print fan is a bit noisy with an annoying high pitched tone when printing petg caused by pwm. But it goes away by manually increasing the print cooling fan to 150.

Other than that I have no complaints so far, which I think is amazing! Compared to my TronXY (which is a surprisingly good printer and noticeably better than my Malya) it's pure luxury.

I'm really peased we're both so happy with our MK3's  :beer2:

Bad Raven

OK, trying to answer your questions:-

I had to readjust "Z" a little for best results but no further changes now between PLA to PETG, remember, I have a second layer on the non-tape side as I fitted one of their self sticky PEI layers ON TOP OF the supplied layer, so the bed thickness is two layers thicker now. And whichever way up it is, the thickness is the same!  :smiley:

Yes, watch out for PETG, it'll grab and kill the PEI bed layer if allowed!

Have not done the fan shroud (yet) as it seems to work perfectly well enough as is, I might be convinced, but not so far!  :rolleyes:

I can possibly use more frequent acetone as I have the second PEI layer, and more spares ready to fit if I fail it. I am at a point where the layer has definite patterns from regularly used prints on it, like stick extensions for E010/E011 quads. NO sign of issues though.

Have not had to scratch model railways bits so far as others have put up files, however, I have tuned files and re-scaled files to suit MY scale, as I model in "N" which is only 2mm to the foot.  Plan is to use the winter "less flying possible" period. I have a plan to 3D scan some "O" trams I have for "N"!!

Only thing I have completely scratched so far is a 1950s "ejector seat" for a foam EDF Gloster Meteor I'm assembling.

My light unit is blisteringly simple, it hardly notices (so not photogenic!) and can be removed if needed for a super high print. It is a 20x20x2mm plastic angle strip (scrap from somewhere or other!!  :azn ), held to the Z top mouldings with black double sided foam tape.  Behind this so the angle drop facing forwards acts as a shield is one of these, a 200mm long micro USB supply LED strip, from Banggood.  As usual I bought a couple to have a ready spare or chance for more light (not needed).

https://www.banggood.com/20CM-Mini-USB-White-Portable-LED-Night-Strip-Light-Bar-Studio-Cabinet-Closet-Lamp-DC5V-p-1202488.html

Power from an old phone PSU.



HobbyKing Fabrikator II Mini, 100x100x100. (a Malyan printer re-badged) - Modded with magnetic Flex Bed

Original Prusa i3 Mk3 (All Black)

nate80

I'm just blown away by the quality of this thing.  It literally hasn't put a foot wrong yet.  I haven't had a singled failed print and there's been no issues with any printed models.  The printers features make using it an absolute pleasure and it prints well whatever filament's thrown at it.  And it's so quiet!  This is how I always envisaged 3D printing should be.

Since building it I've not used either of my other printers.  I'm actually considering buying a second MK3, but will probably wait for whatever replaces it and sell all my other stuff.  It's that good.


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