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3d - Printworx

Anet A8 Heated Bed Mod

Started by VaNDAL_UK, Monday,January 29, 2018, 11:58:47

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VaNDAL_UK

My printer was contemplating arson.

Here's my fix.  ~~

https://youtu.be/wjXlYqB-luI
Emaxx NightHawk 250 (Waiting to be delivered)
Emaxx NightHawk 250 CC3D Evo 
Walkera Runner 250 PRO
FatShark Predator V2
Eachine VT800

Gaza07

Lucky you were there I tend to never leave my hot bed on if I'm going to bed or out, I'm also changing my heaters from 40w to 25w its said to be safer  :beer2:  ~~
Custom built delta with Flex3Drive Gen 4 / Duet Electronics 330mm build area
Custom built delta with Flex3Drive Gen 4 / Duet Electronics 180mm build area
AnyCubic 4max XY printer 210x210x300 build area
AnyCubic Kossel Mini 180x180x300 build area
Geetech A10M Dual Colour 220x220x260 build area
Kelant Orbeat D100 DLP/SLA

Multi-Rotor UK  YouTube  Thingiverse  3d-Printworx

Wyntrblue

i had to do the same thing on saturday night.tho mine didnt start smoking the connector fell off the bed. with a clunk. again i was sat watching it ruined a perfectly good print too :(

but a quick solder and sorted!

VaNDAL_UK

Your very lucky too having it drop off the bed (de-soldering it's self I suspect?)

This really should be looked at from Anet. Another 10 - 15 minutes and it could have caught fire and remember this printers frame is made out of Perspex! A metric FU*K tone of Perspex! All the fuel a fire would ever need!

25W heaters maybe the way to go. So what if it take 20 minutes to heat up. 20 minutes is a small fraction of the time some prints take to complete and the fact is it's less likely to burn your house / garage down is a bonus!
Emaxx NightHawk 250 (Waiting to be delivered)
Emaxx NightHawk 250 CC3D Evo 
Walkera Runner 250 PRO
FatShark Predator V2
Eachine VT800

Gaza07

Yes its all to do with the max temp it can reach if left on constant like if there was a fault, A 40w heater that's left on constant it can reach some thing like 600 degrees and melt aluminium the 25w version is quite a lot less and a fair bit safer, I'm not sure of the exact details but it makes a lot of sense.
Custom built delta with Flex3Drive Gen 4 / Duet Electronics 330mm build area
Custom built delta with Flex3Drive Gen 4 / Duet Electronics 180mm build area
AnyCubic 4max XY printer 210x210x300 build area
AnyCubic Kossel Mini 180x180x300 build area
Geetech A10M Dual Colour 220x220x260 build area
Kelant Orbeat D100 DLP/SLA

Multi-Rotor UK  YouTube  Thingiverse  3d-Printworx

shawdreamer

I never use solid plate heatbeds now, both my printers are converted to use silicone pads.

They come pre-wired with the connections (power and thermistor)imbedded into the silicone coating which means zero chance of stressing the pad connection and pulling the wires off, on top of that the heat up time is super fast (takes about 8-10mins to hit 130c) yet it seems to demand less load from the PSU as my previous mk3 ALU did. :shrug:

All you need then is a piece of nice flat 3mm ALU to stick the pad to and act as a print surface
Geeetech Prusa i3 pro-B (ABS Workhorse)
Pultur Prusa (my own design)
Poltur XL (my own "MUST BE BIGGER" design)
Poltur XL v.2 (my own "MUST BE BIGGER STILL, MUST USE EXTRUSION" design)
https://www.thingiverse.com/shawdreamer/designs

VaNDAL_UK

Emaxx NightHawk 250 (Waiting to be delivered)
Emaxx NightHawk 250 CC3D Evo 
Walkera Runner 250 PRO
FatShark Predator V2
Eachine VT800

shawdreamer

Tuesday,January 30, 2018, 11:22:58 #7 Last Edit: Tuesday,January 30, 2018, 11:25:01 by shawdreamer
https://www.banggood.com/12V-200W-200mmx200mm-Waterproof-Flexible-Silicone-Heating-Pad-Heater-For-3d-Printer-Heat-Bed-p-1123501.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN

thats the last one I bought for the PolturXL which is actually running a 300x200 print bed, but I found that even with the undersized pad underneath the overhanging print bed surfaces were only showing a 4-5c difference.

Ive ran 280x180 sized ABS prints on it a not suffered warping on the overhang edges.




the white stuff you can see beneath is just heatproof insulation to reduce downwards heat loss..... not that the silcone pad really needs it tbf.

you can just stick the pad directly to the rear of your current heatbed rather than paying out for a piece of alu plate and having to precision drill it, should work just as well (original heatbed no longer wired obviously)
Geeetech Prusa i3 pro-B (ABS Workhorse)
Pultur Prusa (my own design)
Poltur XL (my own "MUST BE BIGGER" design)
Poltur XL v.2 (my own "MUST BE BIGGER STILL, MUST USE EXTRUSION" design)
https://www.thingiverse.com/shawdreamer/designs

Doug

Quote from: VaNDAL_UK on Tuesday,January 30, 2018, 10:24:34
Link to the pads?  :beer2:


I find the best ones come from Keenovo  https://www.keenovo.com  They are really very good tho not the cheapest.

They make them all to order and will do one to your own specifications even down to whether you want Thermistor/Thermocouple they will even put a PT100 sensor in it if you wish  you also get a choice as to where the sensor goes (Bottom of the pad or on the Heatsink side  They will do them in whatever voltage you want and power density  the recommended Power density for heated is 0.4-0.5 W/cmˆ2.

Doug

shawdreamer

I was pointed in a similar direction when I mentioned changing over in a thingiverse group (cant recall if it was keenovo or somewhere else though) but I decided to give the cheapo banggoods a go before hand to see if it was worth the effort atall.

not looked back since and despite the shockingly low price the pads have just kept performing, I had been expecting them to be of limited to terrible build quality too but for some bizarre reason their managing to create a decent quality silicone pad that works well and without demanding you grease up your rear passage to afford it :laugh:
Geeetech Prusa i3 pro-B (ABS Workhorse)
Pultur Prusa (my own design)
Poltur XL (my own "MUST BE BIGGER" design)
Poltur XL v.2 (my own "MUST BE BIGGER STILL, MUST USE EXTRUSION" design)
https://www.thingiverse.com/shawdreamer/designs