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ched999uk:
17 May 2019 22:35:04
All OK now, looks like it was TalkTalk DNS servers
Bad Raven:
17 May 2019 18:06:19
Running ok here, try typing the url in stopping at the .uk
Gaza07:
17 May 2019 16:17:12
hmmm it should be fully prepegated now have you cleared your cache ? also make sure the link your using has no extra bits at the end like redirections.
ched999uk:
17 May 2019 15:36:41
mruk still saying 'Changing hosts we will be back soon !!!!'  for me?
Fingers crossed it runs sweet. Cheers
Gaza07:
17 May 2019 12:50:37
It moved yesterday afternoon just need to see how it runs and decide if its gonna stay there, I really dont want to move it again  :rolleyes:
ched999uk:
17 May 2019 11:28:52
Good luck for the mruk move.
Bad Raven:
16 May 2019 18:00:47
Cleared it.
Bad Raven:
16 May 2019 17:59:03
First try always:  Forbidden

You don't have permission to access /index.php on this server.

Additionally, a 403 Forbidden error was encountered while trying to use an ErrorDocument to handle the request.

2nd try loads OK.
Gaza07:
16 May 2019 06:19:20
I think you came on before it had finished, I'm prob gonna try mruk on this server to.
Bad Raven:
15 May 2019 21:17:50
1st tiem here after your change it threw up various "not permitted" and Error 432's, now loading OK.

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Project anet a8

Started by Wyntrblue, December 26, 2017, 01:55:34 pm

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Wyntrblue

Morning all.

It’s Boxing Day and now I have to turn this into a functioning printer


Wyntrblue

God those m3 nuts are fiddly

shawdreamer

to save yourself future hassle with a8, carefully check all acylic parts are cut precisely and square (eg: 90° angles are actually 90° angles and not cut slightly skewiff)

Its one of the main failing points of the cheaper acrylic frame based printers, the cutting process is often half arsed which means that some of the smaller parts aernt exactly perfectly done (particularly joining notches)

my advice is to take some time checking and filing down any suspect parts that you come across as you'll find even though they still seem to slot together well enough now they will generally add to additional stress on the machines mechanical's and cause inevitable early failure.

If you came across any during the frame build Id suggest you revisit them before finishing the build, it may seem like a ballache now but trust me it'll save time, effort, money and blood pressure at a later date.

after that have a look for known good upgrades to counter the other issues the a8 often suffers

eg:

Z wobble (results in layered lines all the way up your prints)- install a wobble fix, theirs lots of designs available

Bent lead screws (the z axis screws on nearly all i3 kits turn up slightly bent which contributes to the z wobble issue above)- consider swapping out the upper rod acrylic parts for bearing design versions, this helps the rods maintain a more centralised position and limits increasing bend

Heat bed connection (by far the biggest pain in the ricter the A8 has) its weak and breaks very easily, over time the constant bed movement guarantees its quick failure - there are a few "fix's" knocking about but imho there is only one fix that should ever be used in this case, de-solder the shit-awful JST connector Anet thought was a good idea to use, bin it and solder the wires directly to the heatbed board points, Im not exagerating when I say that that connector is pretty much a assured fire risk and just isnt worth chancing atall.
Geeetech Prusa i3 pro-B (ABS Workhorse)
Pultur Prusa (my own design)
Poltur XL (my own "MUST BE BIGGER" design)
Poltur XL v.2 (my own "MUST BE BIGGER STILL, MUST USE EXTRUSION" design)
https://www.thingiverse.com/shawdreamer/designs

Doug

I can't help but stress the importance of what Shawdreamer has stated, also look into getting an external Misfit board to drive the bed heater as that is another weakness in the Anet's controller board

Doug

Wyntrblue

Already planned on soldering the bed wires rather than the rubbish connector. Also plan to do mosfet when I can. Also not planning on using the psu that came with it. I have a spare psu from a pc that is far better quality.

As to checking the frame I don’t have any tools to do that so I’m just going to hope it all works out ok at this stage. If I need to tear it down later then that’s not the end of the world.

In fact the only thing I’m really worrying about is bed levelling. That seems pretty intimidating for a noob

shawdreamer

it only sounds that way and only because so many people needlessly struggle with it.

for starters you should stick with a simple manual leveling method like the sheet of paper approach.

that just involves getting your z-axis height soemwhere like right on the nearest corner to your extruders park position ( were it goe's to when you home all axis)

then the aim is to be just about able to slide a single sheet of paper between your extruders tip and the bed platform with only the minimum of friction on the paper.

your gonna have to adjust and re-home you z-axis a few times before you finally get it like you want it.

Once you have that corner right then just move the extruder to each corner of your bed and adjust the actual bed corner adjusters to get the same result with the paper at each corner, be sure to retest the original corner once youve done as it'll likely be slightly out again. (its best to do another circuit just to be double sure)

once you have all corners with the same paper thickness between bed and tip your done.... your bed is level and you shouldnt need to touch it again unless it gets a knock or the adjusters are a little loose.

some will preach "auto bed leveliing is this, is that, is amazing, cant live without" but tbh..... its just a gimmick really, if you get your bed well levelled manually and it has good solid adjusters then the likelyhood you'll never have to touch it again in dozens of prints is good.

I myself tried a few auto bed methods and I still prefer using manual levelling, it just works for me.
Geeetech Prusa i3 pro-B (ABS Workhorse)
Pultur Prusa (my own design)
Poltur XL (my own "MUST BE BIGGER" design)
Poltur XL v.2 (my own "MUST BE BIGGER STILL, MUST USE EXTRUSION" design)
https://www.thingiverse.com/shawdreamer/designs

shawdreamer

ps.... thats purely in regards to i3 type printers though, bed levelling on delta's and such are an entirely different ballache and were auto levelling comes into its own.
Geeetech Prusa i3 pro-B (ABS Workhorse)
Pultur Prusa (my own design)
Poltur XL (my own "MUST BE BIGGER" design)
Poltur XL v.2 (my own "MUST BE BIGGER STILL, MUST USE EXTRUSION" design)
https://www.thingiverse.com/shawdreamer/designs

Doug

Quote from: shawdreamer on December 26, 2017, 09:53:05 pm
ps.... thats purely in regards to i3 type printers though, bed levelling on delta's and such are an entirely different ballache and were auto levelling comes into its own.


Glad you qualified that statement LOL but yes totally agree with you tho I do wish the std would be for only 3 bed mounting screws instead of 4 would make it much easier and less chance of twisting the bed.

Also as well as levelling in each corner set you Z hight in the centre of the bed as that is where most of the printing will be done.

As for truing up the frame you dont really need any special tools a bit of string corner to corners will soon show if it is true or not and if you need to check parallelism then you can't beat the MK1 Eyeball.

Doug

Wyntrblue

Forgot to post the build pic when I packed up for the night...

So here you go


Doug

December 27, 2017, 04:00:12 pm #9 Last Edit: December 27, 2017, 04:09:41 pm by Doug
Looking good there but I hope the holes for the 8mm smooth X Axis rods go all the way through the right hand carrier else your going to have to strip it down again?

Is it an MDF Frame or acrylic?

Doug

Wyntrblue

The guide rods (smooth ones on both sides) sit on top of the stepper motors so I think all good.

It’s an acrylic frame. I just couldn’t be arsed to take the protective paper off it. Shiny black plastic always looks naff once it’s exposed to life.

Wish I could get back to building it but it’s just too cold in the garage

shawdreamer

If its too cold to build it were youve got it......dont even bother trying to use it there.

cold is the enemy of 3d printing, regardless of what filament you use, even PLA wont hold to a print surface if its cold enough, you'll have warped prints left right and centre :laugh:
Geeetech Prusa i3 pro-B (ABS Workhorse)
Pultur Prusa (my own design)
Poltur XL (my own "MUST BE BIGGER" design)
Poltur XL v.2 (my own "MUST BE BIGGER STILL, MUST USE EXTRUSION" design)
https://www.thingiverse.com/shawdreamer/designs

Wyntrblue

It’s only cold because the best source of light in my garage is the sun. I do have a heater in there that makes it toasty  but the lighting is rubbish. So when I’m building stuff I leave the door open when it comes to actually printing I will be toasty and warm in there with the heater on and the door closed

Doug

Quote from: Wyntrblue on December 27, 2017, 04:16:51 pm
The guide rods (smooth ones on both sides) sit on top of the stepper motors so I think all good.

It's an acrylic frame. I just couldn't be arsed to take the protective paper off it. Shiny black plastic always looks naff once it's exposed to life.

Wish I could get back to building it but it's just too cold in the garage


I was meaning the 2 rods that fit in the 2 White plastic parts that slide up and down driven by the threaded rods it all depends wether the right hand bracket has holes that go all the way thru or not

Doug

Wyntrblue

Quote from: Doug on December 27, 2017, 06:21:17 pm

I was meaning the 2 rods that fit in the 2 White plastic parts that slide up and down driven by the threaded rods it all depends wether the right hand bracket has holes that go all the way thru or not

Doug



Ok got back to it today. I now know the rods your referring too. :)

Top rod went in no trouble bottom rod goes through the right hand white plastic but but it’s sooo tight

Anyway back to building