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Author Topic: Acetone Vaping made easy.  (Read 901 times)

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Online shawdreamer

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Acetone Vaping made easy.
« on: December 09, 2017, 01:43:23 AM »
I know alot of people who wanted to try vape treating their prints but didnt know how to go about it, many of them considered it a bit of a dark art due to some of the near pro looking results that can be achieved.

well, Ill simply say what I tell them, Its just not as hard as it seems.

infact its remarkably easy to do, and done right it can produce excellent results.

so here's my own method, but before we start...

ACETONE VAPING IS ONLY BENEFICIAL WHEN USED ON ABS PRINTS it wont work on PLA

ACETONE IS FLAMMABLE, MORE SO ONCE IT VAPORISES SO BE CAREFUL TO NEVER DO THIS NEAR ANY OPEN FLAMES OR OBVIOUS SOURCES OF COMBUSTION..... eg dont spark up a ciggie while you've got your head over the bottle you moron :laugh:

first I need a fresh print....

luckily Ive just finished printing out a new canopy for my sparkie project so that'll be a willing volunteer...


 
MMMMMmmmm I love the smell of ABS in the morning

next we'll need to do some generalised tidying up, trim away any brim, support material etc, Its also at this point you can give the surface a light sanding with some fine grit sandpaper, it'll look a bit scuffed up now but thall dissappear later and it'll help eliminate any layer ridges in the print after vaping (Im gonna forgo the sanding on this one as Im not to fussed about the layer ridges)




lets take a quick look at the pre-vaping finish for later comaprison...




you can clearly see the individual print layers, especially on surfaces that are printed just off the horizontal, thats the "wood grain effect" you can see on the top of the print (personally I like the effect :laugh:)

now we'll need some highly specialised equipment,  a Silca & Boric Oxide tempered high heat resistant non permeating container with molded lid...... or in laymans terms.......... one of your missus Pyrex pots with a lid ::) (telling her your using it is optional).




now you have 2 options, the slow and steady approach or the "ffs I cant be 4rsed waiting" approach.... I use the latter obviously.

both methods use the same Acetone liquid.



You can pick it up off Egay for £10 a litre if you look enough

the first method purely relies on the acetones natural ability to evaporate over time, for this method you take some kitchen towel or even toilet paper and give it a light soaking of acetone before you place it in the bottom of the bowl, you then place something metal ontop of it to act like a pedestal for your printed part to sit on (YOU DONT WANT THE PRINT TO DIRECTLY TOUCH THE ACETONE, ITLL EAT THROUGH THE PRINT IN SECONDS!!!!)

you then just put the lid on and wait........... and wait........... and wait......... seriously, some prints can take hours to fully coat.

hence why I use option 2 ~~

This time you place the bowl on your printer heatbed (I also designed a purpose made vaping setup if your not comfortable doing this on your printers bed...https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1696521)

now this time just place your pedestal/s directly into the bowl, you wont need tissue/towel this time.

place your print onto the pedestals with the face you want mostly vaped facing downward (this is so the rising vapours will work directly on it), make sure its not touching the sides of the bowl or the lid when its placed on.




now take a single cap-full of acetone (you really dont need much with this method) and carefully pour it directly into the bowl (be sure not to get any on your print (you could do this before placing the print but if you knock the print off at any point its going straight in the acetone!)






now lid on,




Acetone has a really low boiling point (53c iirc) so itll even boil if the pots placed over a bowl of freshly boiled water..... but thats still to slow for me sooooooooooo.












yep....that'll get things moving along nicely :whistling:

so roughly 10 mins later (or whatever time it takes your bed to hit 100c) you should be seeing the inside of the bowl sides and lid showing condensation, this is the acetone in its vapour form.






now its advisable from this point on to keep a watchful eye for any sign of "drooping" or "sagging" appearing anywhere on your print as this is a strong sign that its had enough time in the vapour and its actually no longer just lightly melting the surface but instead making its way into the print itself, at which point its time to get it out.

BUT

until its time for it to come out you MUST NOT lift the lid as the instant you do the acetone vapour will immediately dissipate and all signs will vanish, leaving you with a potentially half vaped print (not a disaster btw, you just might not get the complete finish you were after) and you will either have to be satisfied with what you got or add more acetone liquid into the bowl and keep an even closer watch (fresh liquid into a already warm bowl with vaporise instantly and can quickly over coat the print)

once you can see a nice even sheen appear across your print (even the upward facing parts should show a sheen) its generally about time to take it out (all in all mine was in the bowl for 20mins total).




you still need to be careful while handling the print even once its out the bowl and away from the acetone as the vaping will have left the surface slightly melted and soft to the touch, even the lightest touch can leave an annoyingly clear fingerprint :cry, Its best to limit touching only points that wont be seen later.

At this point the part isnt "cured" or hardened and will need to left to stand somewhere safe while any remaining acetone dissipates and the surface can solidify once more..... this is what gives your your nice shiny pro like finish.




ooooooooooo look at the shiny shiny <dribbles>

and the before and after shot







and finally the cherry on the cake and coincidently the main reason I even do this is the added benefit of increased strength throughout the part, Im not exagerating when I say that a properly vaped print is roughly twice if not three times more strong than a non vaped part which makes it a must for my uses (quadcopters and structural supportive parts for printer design parts)

well then, I hope this helped shed some light on this actually not so "dark art" and gives a few the confidence they needed to give it a shot.

Just remember people, you'll be working with flammable liquid and vapours so treat them with the respect they deserve and you'll be fine.


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Offline Gaza07

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Re: Acetone Vaping made easy.
« Reply #1 on: December 09, 2017, 06:04:50 AM »
Nice informative post I havent tried ABS yet only printed using PLA but then I'am a noob  :rolleyes:  ~~
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Online shawdreamer

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Re: Acetone Vaping made easy.
« Reply #2 on: December 09, 2017, 10:17:13 AM »
Just stick with PLA for aslong as you can, Its a good solid performer and so much easier to print with than other materials, its only when you start needing more structurally stronger prints you'll need to consider using other filaments.

I look at PLA using the "old school ruler" approach

PLA can make a great plastic ruler, you can use it to draw straight lines and take measurements, all the things a school ruler is meant to be used for

but when it comes time to catapult that eraser across the room at your mates head or play the mini wobble board twanger of the edge of the desktop to annoy your teacher..... thats when your gonna want the more flex forgiving ABS ruler :laugh:
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Offline Gaza07

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Re: Acetone Vaping made easy.
« Reply #3 on: November 16, 2018, 06:12:49 AM »
I'm going to be giving this a go very soon I've printed some parts for my 4max inc a titan aero mount so it will need vaping, can nail poish remover be used or does it have to be pure acetone ?
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Offline Bad Raven

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Re: Acetone Vaping made easy.
« Reply #4 on: November 16, 2018, 06:49:14 AM »
I found that commercial high street NPR was so diluted with water as to be useless. However, some high st places sell the Eternal Beauty range and they do a pure acetone. I got on to this as wife asked a friend and they had a part bottle they gave me. Since then wife bought a new bottle from some High St location (she's not here to ask, but I have a good wife who has good friends!!)

Alternatively it really is not difficult to find via the EBay etc routes.  I'd say don't bother with anything less than pure.
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Online shawdreamer

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Re: Acetone Vaping made easy.
« Reply #5 on: November 16, 2018, 09:02:55 AM »
agreed, better off with pure, you get more dependable and predictable results, diluted stuff evaporates at a slower pace so you'll often see your vaped parts coming out seemingly "half vaped", were the lower half has been coated by the rising evaporated acetone but it hasnt been able to evaporate fast enough to get right the way up to the top of your part.

the ebay seller I always use, very dependable and good product....
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Acetone-1L-12L-Pure-Acetone-Acrylic-Nail-Remover-Nail-Polish-Remover-99-8/112450926416?hash=item1a2e98f750:m:m-agNX-JRd9FMLJFiaKeWgg:rk:3:pf:0
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Offline Hozza

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Re: Acetone Vaping made easy.
« Reply #6 on: November 16, 2018, 02:30:11 PM »
I use one of these for vaping ABS prints:

https://www.argos.co.uk/product/7248236

Cheap, safe and easy to setup outside so no risk of fumes in the house.
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Online shawdreamer

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Re: Acetone Vaping made easy.
« Reply #7 on: November 16, 2018, 04:38:23 PM »
I use one of these for vaping ABS prints:

https://www.argos.co.uk/product/7248236

Cheap, safe and easy to setup outside so no risk of fumes in the house.

someone mentioned something along those lines when I first started looking into doing it but you cant see how your prints are coming along except from the top  :embarrassed,  If you use a Pyrex you can check almost 360 if its coated well  ~~
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Offline Hozza

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Re: Acetone Vaping made easy.
« Reply #8 on: November 18, 2018, 09:37:51 AM »
Very simple, pop the lid on which starts the process, once lid is covered in condensation remove lid and your part is vaped :wack0
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Online shawdreamer

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Re: Acetone Vaping made easy.
« Reply #9 on: November 18, 2018, 10:03:41 AM »
Very simple, pop the lid on which starts the process, once lid is covered in condensation remove lid and your part is vaped :wack0

that rule of thumb works well with smaller parts (thats pretty much what I do myself even using the pyrex ;)) but its less successful with the larger stuff (like some of my quadcopter frames) which tend to come out with an uneven finish which though not a disaster does kinda spoil the visual effect :cry
Geeetech Prusa i3 pro-B (ABS Workhorse)
Pultur Prusa (my own design)
Poltur XL (my own "MUST BE BIGGER" design)
Poltur XL v.2 (my own "MUST BE BIGGER STILL, MUST USE EXTRUSION" design)
https://www.thingiverse.com/shawdreamer/designs