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Real-Filament PET-G

Started by Hozza, May 27, 2018, 10:30:28 am

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Hozza

I ordered a roll of Real-Filament Shifting Blue, I'm currently working on a new 3D printer build and liked the look of the colour, unfortunately it cannot be printed over 220c even though they state 245c as a recommended, if I go above 220c the filament gets air bubbles in it, I'm guess it's a reaction from the silver particles in it. Problem is at 220c the parts have no tensile strength :cry
https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01MPXWOEZ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've contacted Amazon and they have accepted a return and refunded me so at least I'm not out of pocket.

Question is what filament should I get for structural parts on a 3D printer.
Makibox (sold)
i3 custom build (sold)
Smartcore (sold)
Kossel XL Duet3D based, with Flex3drive (working)
HEVO Hybrid (worlds slowest build)
Kossel Mini Duet3D based, with Flex3drive (working)
Geeetech A10M (Still in Box)

shawdreamer

I use ABS on my printer builds as its not as susceptible to vibes and has good strength and adequate rigidity, My last build is entirely ABS parts wise with the exception of the 2020 extrusion obviously.


its predecessors were also ABS



parts from the original two were still in solid condition even after I stripped them down to make the next version, even after giving me many hours of trouble free printing ~~
Geeetech Prusa i3 pro-B (ABS Workhorse)
Pultur Prusa (my own design)
Poltur XL (my own "MUST BE BIGGER" design)
Poltur XL v.2 (my own "MUST BE BIGGER STILL, MUST USE EXTRUSION" design)
https://www.thingiverse.com/shawdreamer/designs

Hozza

Unfortunately ABS is a material I can't use :-/ hence being a big advocate of PET-G

The other Real-Filaments what temp you print those at?
Makibox (sold)
i3 custom build (sold)
Smartcore (sold)
Kossel XL Duet3D based, with Flex3drive (working)
HEVO Hybrid (worlds slowest build)
Kossel Mini Duet3D based, with Flex3drive (working)
Geeetech A10M (Still in Box)

shawdreamer

May 27, 2018, 05:19:07 pm #3 Last Edit: May 27, 2018, 05:23:17 pm by shawdreamer
varys slightly with colour but I found the lighter colours print well for me between 250c-260c (usually a case of the lighter the colour the higher the temp with the Real brand).

thats with the solid colours however, the transparent's and metallic hint versions all have their own individual sweet spots which i tend to figure out on the trot when using them but in general they all sit somewhere between 240c-255c iirc (I havnt used any in a while, been on a abs trip :laugh:)

coincidently why cant you use ABS?, heatbed issue?
Geeetech Prusa i3 pro-B (ABS Workhorse)
Pultur Prusa (my own design)
Poltur XL (my own "MUST BE BIGGER" design)
Poltur XL v.2 (my own "MUST BE BIGGER STILL, MUST USE EXTRUSION" design)
https://www.thingiverse.com/shawdreamer/designs

Hozza

Quote from: shawdreamer on May 27, 2018, 05:19:07 pm
coincidently why cant you use ABS?, heatbed issue?


No the fumes affect my misses and it's not pleasant :sick:
Makibox (sold)
i3 custom build (sold)
Smartcore (sold)
Kossel XL Duet3D based, with Flex3drive (working)
HEVO Hybrid (worlds slowest build)
Kossel Mini Duet3D based, with Flex3drive (working)
Geeetech A10M (Still in Box)

shawdreamer

Quote from: Hozza on May 27, 2018, 08:30:19 pm
No the fumes affect my misses and it's not pleasant :sick:


have you though of enclosing and using a fume filter?

you can pick up a fume mask filter cartridge from ebay for under a tenner, coupled with a printeb box chamber and a 120mm pc fan you get a pretty decent setup that kills abs fumes for ages (also works as a soldering de-fume setup).

I used to use something similar when my printers were in the office with me but I have mine in a utility room now that has excellent external venting.
Geeetech Prusa i3 pro-B (ABS Workhorse)
Pultur Prusa (my own design)
Poltur XL (my own "MUST BE BIGGER" design)
Poltur XL v.2 (my own "MUST BE BIGGER STILL, MUST USE EXTRUSION" design)
https://www.thingiverse.com/shawdreamer/designs

Hozza

Well I'm planning on having the HEVO enclosed and filted but that's what the printed parts are for  ::)
Makibox (sold)
i3 custom build (sold)
Smartcore (sold)
Kossel XL Duet3D based, with Flex3drive (working)
HEVO Hybrid (worlds slowest build)
Kossel Mini Duet3D based, with Flex3drive (working)
Geeetech A10M (Still in Box)

shawdreamer

aaagh the chicken and the egg dilemma :laugh:

well, aslong as your printer design is sufficiently sturdy, well balanced (so no one specific part is under excessive load constantly) and your current rig can print clean and trouble free you can get away with using PLA .

I used it with the very first Pultur I3 version and it lasted pretty well, the only drawback is PLA conducts vibes quite well so it can be a bit more noisy than a frame built with ABS, the same issue arises with Petg (imho its actually more so with Petg) but aslong as you can put up with the slight noise increase it'll work well enough, you can always reprint in ABS on the built PLA printer at a later date and replace the parts you think cause the most vibe noise.
Geeetech Prusa i3 pro-B (ABS Workhorse)
Pultur Prusa (my own design)
Poltur XL (my own "MUST BE BIGGER" design)
Poltur XL v.2 (my own "MUST BE BIGGER STILL, MUST USE EXTRUSION" design)
https://www.thingiverse.com/shawdreamer/designs

Hozza

Thanks for your input, I've been looking at ABS-X from 3dfilaprint, but getting it to print nice is being a royal pain  :laugh:
Makibox (sold)
i3 custom build (sold)
Smartcore (sold)
Kossel XL Duet3D based, with Flex3drive (working)
HEVO Hybrid (worlds slowest build)
Kossel Mini Duet3D based, with Flex3drive (working)
Geeetech A10M (Still in Box)


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