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3d - Printworx

Massive prints

Started by Wyntrblue, Monday,May 21, 2018, 18:58:46

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Hey guys.

I have an idea for a project that I want to do won’t go into too much detail but I’m going to need to print some big prints. My printer will print the size I need but one part alone is going to take 6days....

Any tips on stopping and starting prints mid way through? Because I can’t leave my printer running all that time when I’m not at home...


Bad Raven

You've not said what printer (and any mods) or the size of the parts, and without that its going to be difficult for anyone to comment more specifically.

The Prusa i3 Mk3 is supposed to be capable of interrupted printing, however, I appreciate you want to use what you have, so that comes back to the above issue.
HobbyKing Fabrikator II Mini, 100x100x100. (a re-badged Malyan) - Modded with magnetic Flex Bed.
Original Prusa i3 Mk3 (All Black).
Anycubic Photon S  (Resin/UV).


I would plug it in some one elses power and leave it running for 6 days  :rofl:
Custom built delta with Flex3Drive Gen 4 / Duet Electronics 330mm build area
Custom built delta with Flex3Drive Gen 4 / Duet Electronics 180mm build area
AnyCubic 4max XY printer 210x210x300 build area
AnyCubic Kossel Mini 180x180x300 build area
Geetech A10M Dual Colour 220x220x260 build area
Kelant Orbeat D100 DLP/SLA

Multi-Rotor UK  YouTube  Thingiverse  3d-Printworx

Bad Raven

Quote from: Gaza07 on Tuesday,May 22, 2018, 06:41:56
I would plug it in some one elses power and leave it running for 6 days  :rofl:

Most street lights have very poorly fitting cover plates, you could make a dummy "green box" alongside and pretend its a BT terminal unit,

If anyone asks, tell 'em its making a noise as its filled with 3000 type relays....................  :azn
HobbyKing Fabrikator II Mini, 100x100x100. (a re-badged Malyan) - Modded with magnetic Flex Bed.
Original Prusa i3 Mk3 (All Black).
Anycubic Photon S  (Resin/UV).


imho its not very advisable to have a extended pause time on any part print.

the section already printed will cool entirely (and dependant on what form of material you use also undergo chemical changes)  meaning that it will inevitably change dimensions (albeit only microns in most cases) enough so that the renewed print run will very likely be distinctively out of alignment which inturn will effect the performance and strength of the finished part.

In theory however its easy to accomplish what your asking.

you could take the part your wanting to print and using any cad program (meshmixer,tinkerdac etc) cut it in half horizontally, you then send the two parts through your slicer without moving them....

essentially you'll have two separate prints, one thats sat on the printer build surface and one thats floating above, print the first onto the build surface then without removing it when done start the second, IF your printers well calibrated AND the first part hasnt shifted to a great extent then the second part should print directly onto the top of the first part, in general terms its two completely separate print jobs which means there's no need to add in any sort of extended pause via console or g-code and your printer could even be entirely shutdown between the two print runs.

as I said though....its dependant on printer quality/setup precision and whether the first part shrinks or shifts between prints, a good tip would be to use some form of print surface that has reasonably good adhesion even when cooled as you wont be able to rely on printbed heat to hold the first part in place while the printer is off.
Geeetech Prusa i3 pro-B (ABS Workhorse)
Pultur Prusa (my own design)
Poltur XL (my own "MUST BE BIGGER" design)
Poltur XL v.2 (my own "MUST BE BIGGER STILL, MUST USE EXTRUSION" design)


thanks for the replys.

its an anet a8...

what im looking to do is print a highly modifide version of this

i have made some changes to the internal structure as im going to be turning  it into a bicopter, so have made space for battery, fc etc and also changed the "engine pods" on the side so they can move allowing directional thrust from the motors. All in all this is the early stages...

im currently printing pla and havent had any issues with making sure the machine is well calibrated and my prints thus far have all come out well.

i like the idea of slicing it into seperate print jobs i will run a test on this at the weekend to see how i get on.

thanks all

Bad Raven

Damn you, missing "Like" button....................  :smiley:
HobbyKing Fabrikator II Mini, 100x100x100. (a re-badged Malyan) - Modded with magnetic Flex Bed.
Original Prusa i3 Mk3 (All Black).
Anycubic Photon S  (Resin/UV).


nothing to like yet, this is still early stages. iv just about finished figuring out the exact flight components i need to source. tho im currently lost in the math for thrust requirements. doesnt help i dont know what the auw will be yet.  I should be starting printing this weekend on some of the smaller parts.

watch this space for an utter disaster of an over ambitious project


some prototype work on the right engine pod .... going to use flush fit ducted fans on this as that will make it alot easier to work with. Still need to work out exactly where i am going to hinge the pod (and therefor the motor) and how i am going to connect the servo rods etc. but work in progress