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Messages - shawdreamer
<starts sucking thumb while still rocking back and forth>
its changed... its all changed...... nothings the same......... my safe place is gone....... its all gone......gone.
<curls up into a ball in the corner and rocks back and forth staring into space>
their listed and look pretty solid (as in "hard"), you could loose a degree of vibe dampening that v- slot setups usually offer.
well it only takes a micron of misalignment in the z to create layer lines so its entirely possible they are the cause, cant hurt to change them anyway.
dunno weather BG still has em in and/or on offer but they were selling the twin bearing Creality3D ones, I used some a while back and they were solid quality considering the price (£4 a pair iirc)
tbh the molding on those bearings looks awful, doesnt look like the rubber pellets have been fused properly during the heating process
dodgy glass is a annoyingly common issue when it comes to manufacturer supplied stuff, I havnt however ever had an issue with stuff bought separate off eGay thankfully, I likely never will either as both mine have been converted to 3mm ss plates with silicone heat pads and I either print directly onto the plate with a layer of Kapton or onto a magnetic sheet of PEI in the case of my own Geeetech, Ive used the same supplier for my SS plates everytime and he's always willing to cut them to the dimensions I require and they've always came perfectly flat.
as for the z wobble, I'm surprised that's a factor with that setup, the v bearing setup is usually quite strong against such things which also means there's probably only a handful of fixes for it
nevermind, just saw the forum link you put up, Ill download it now and have a gander
wouldnt mind having a look at that mixer app, do you have a link ordid they drop it in on a sd card?
what file format was the dog model in?, the colour mixing looks a little to defined for it to be STL (that is unless its a silly huge file).
The ANET stats
"Pah..... thatll do I suppose"
January 04, 2019, 11:57:52 pm
glass (Borosilicate or other) isnt by nature a good heat transmitter though it does disperse it quite evenly (the glass on the front of your oven door is borosilicate for example so you can imagine how dangerous itd be if it got as hot as the inside of your oven every time you turned it on )
generally people use glass beds for the absolute flatness they offer (though Ive seen warped ones before ) and typically you often have to up your bed temp settings by anything upto 20c depending on the thickness and quality of the glass, its worth noting though that glass by itself with no additional surface prep doesnt really offer a good adhesion for most materials.
I rarely if ever use glass myself and even on those occasions I either coat it in a even layer of strong hair spray (you can get butter to stick to the bed with a good bit of loreal firm hold ) or a more simpler, cheaper and remarkably effective method is a document laminating sheet (like the ones you can buy at any stationary shop etc), you simply cut out a piece of the sheet to the size of your glass, lay it on it, then ramp up the temp till the laminates glue surface go's off, then smooth out any bubbles and your good to go....Barring Kapton tape Ive not found anything as effective for use across multiple filament types.
January 04, 2019, 09:04:05 pm
octoprint shouldnt be doing anything to alter the print layer height.
layer depth and pretty much all the printing parameters are handled by the slicer and are contained within the final sliced G-code it generates, afaik a standard Octoprint setup should literally just be behaving as a go between/middle man.
you sure you havnt accidentally altered a slicer option?, its not that hard to do without noticing, even with years under my belt I still occassionally screw up something that simple without clocking on.
even if you dont use it for vaping abs parts, some pure acetone is good to have on hand for cleaning a bed surface, quick wipe over pei, glass, printbite or similar and its like new, I generally give my Kapton tape coat print bed a quick wipe every couple of days which gives it back any adhesion it might have lost from print residue or dust. Also handy to have for rejuvenating/salvaging any nozzles/throats that are blocked with abs (and some lesser blocked petg nozzles).
Id avoid using a printbite surface (which is what you have iirc from the other days description) as it grips to it like a limpet
the only problem with using painters tape (the blue stuff) is it often colour transfers onto the model which can be proper annoying, you might want to try just using normal standard white masking tape with flexi, its lacks a little less grip ability than the blue stuff but with flexi thats actually a bonus half the time.
there are alot of flex filaments available now that are actually based on PLA formula so often print exactly the same settings.
The Excelvan FlexPla I use prints perfectly fine on the same Pla settings as I generally use for stock Pla, the only difference is bed adhesion (generally the flex sticks to the bed like its been superglued so it helps to have a removable bed surface that can be flexed itself to help the print come away)