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Messages - shawdreamer
I was going through a "lava would be a good theme" stage when I first built it .... shudda seen before I took the Arduino controlled addressable leds out... twas an epileptics click bait
oh the joys of having access filament to hand and nothing "particular" project wise to use it on.....
so I just do what I always do..... find something that doesnt need me to feck about with it and erm..... feck about with it.
this time round its my trusty work horse day to day desktop which after many many hours... days..... years of use still diligently does everything I ask of it without complaint (most of the time), so I figured its deserved some tlc.
basically its a low'ish end i7 with a healthy amount of ram (16Gb iirc...least it was the last time I bothered to look ) and my equally as trsuty old GTX 570ti, which basically makes it a pretty solid setup for everyday CAD work and rendering (which is more or less all its used for)
anywho I had considered watercooling the entire setup but thatd be a bit ott for a everyday work pc so with a little help form my printers I did a few air cooling tweeks.
lost the two 5" drive bays (who the feck still uses discs anyway?????)
...and replaced them with a angled intake enclosure (ya can neva ave to much cold air)
then I wanted to redirect some of the front intake airflow up toward the Gpu were it could actually be of some use...
bracket that utilizes some spare MB mounting points on the cases rear back plate so I could horizontal mount a 120 fan to pull some of the wasted cool air from the lowest intake up toward the hardware.
then I simply couldnt help myself and figured "might aswell seen as Im ere", Ive never been happy from day one with the Zotacs 570ti's cooling solution but as I never really stressed it that much (even when new I never really properly gamed on it) it did its job well enough so I left it, but in for a penny and all that.
off came the shroud and crappy 60mm fan (that even when new sounded like a jet engine when at full pace), and on went a from scratch twin 90mm silent ducted design and printed shroud....
I was suprised.... 15c drop in full load stress temp (was 80-85c with original, now its solid at 72c ... still sorta want to watercool the lot though just for the hell of it and Im bored )
also threw in a realtime visual system monitor while I was at it (or an old Samsung S3
running trigone to be more exact.....works a treat though I must say )
the only problem I have now is my everyday use setup now visually makes my actually Msi Codex gaming rig look like a large black brick which obviously means Ill have to see what I can feck about with on that next
practically zero forum posts since xmas, whats going on?, is everyone just using chat or something
anywho, I just finished the final touches to my latest squonker batt mod and slapped it up on thingiverse so figured Id throw it on ere just to show that we havnt all suddenly developed 3d printing cancer and stopped doing stuff.
while Im at it though.....Gaz..... weres the "add images to post" clicky?, I had to go over the MR to open the Imgbb uploader, does it need adding or have you stashed it somewhere else?
someone was playing with a similar idea on one of the groups Im in on thingiverse (but I think it was for a laser engraver iirc), looked like a really interesting idea before someone pointed out a rather obvious flaw....its only good for filaments that dont require a heated build platform....meaning its a PLA only printer in essence.
with the build platform needing to be able to spin 360 it would be impractical to have permanent heat bed connections and the alternative was touch point connections but then there was a likelihood that the touchpoints would offer to much resistance and end up being a hotspot rather than the Heatbed itself..... someone suggested Anet might buy the design though as they dont mind burning peoples houses down with terrible heatbed designs.
<starts sucking thumb while still rocking back and forth>
its changed... its all changed...... nothings the same......... my safe place is gone....... its all gone......gone.
<curls up into a ball in the corner and rocks back and forth staring into space>
their listed and look pretty solid (as in "hard"), you could loose a degree of vibe dampening that v- slot setups usually offer.
well it only takes a micron of misalignment in the z to create layer lines so its entirely possible they are the cause, cant hurt to change them anyway.
dunno weather BG still has em in and/or on offer but they were selling the twin bearing Creality3D ones, I used some a while back and they were solid quality considering the price (£4 a pair iirc)
tbh the molding on those bearings looks awful, doesnt look like the rubber pellets have been fused properly during the heating process
dodgy glass is a annoyingly common issue when it comes to manufacturer supplied stuff, I havnt however ever had an issue with stuff bought separate off eGay thankfully, I likely never will either as both mine have been converted to 3mm ss plates with silicone heat pads and I either print directly onto the plate with a layer of Kapton or onto a magnetic sheet of PEI in the case of my own Geeetech, Ive used the same supplier for my SS plates everytime and he's always willing to cut them to the dimensions I require and they've always came perfectly flat.
as for the z wobble, I'm surprised that's a factor with that setup, the v bearing setup is usually quite strong against such things which also means there's probably only a handful of fixes for it
nevermind, just saw the forum link you put up, Ill download it now and have a gander
wouldnt mind having a look at that mixer app, do you have a link ordid they drop it in on a sd card?
what file format was the dog model in?, the colour mixing looks a little to defined for it to be STL (that is unless its a silly huge file).
The ANET stats
"Pah..... thatll do I suppose"
January 04, 2019, 11:57:52 pm
glass (Borosilicate or other) isnt by nature a good heat transmitter though it does disperse it quite evenly (the glass on the front of your oven door is borosilicate for example so you can imagine how dangerous itd be if it got as hot as the inside of your oven every time you turned it on )
generally people use glass beds for the absolute flatness they offer (though Ive seen warped ones before ) and typically you often have to up your bed temp settings by anything upto 20c depending on the thickness and quality of the glass, its worth noting though that glass by itself with no additional surface prep doesnt really offer a good adhesion for most materials.
I rarely if ever use glass myself and even on those occasions I either coat it in a even layer of strong hair spray (you can get butter to stick to the bed with a good bit of loreal firm hold ) or a more simpler, cheaper and remarkably effective method is a document laminating sheet (like the ones you can buy at any stationary shop etc), you simply cut out a piece of the sheet to the size of your glass, lay it on it, then ramp up the temp till the laminates glue surface go's off, then smooth out any bubbles and your good to go....Barring Kapton tape Ive not found anything as effective for use across multiple filament types.