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Topics - Hozza
Storing filaments that are hygroscopic is very important but long print sessions leave the roll exposed and even placing the roll back into storage isn't enough, so I was looking for a way to dry out filament, and after a failed attempt to use the kitchen oven even on it's lowest setting it would get too warm and glass the filament especially PET-G causing waste
So Google became my friend and I found this http://www.printdry.com/product/filament-dryer but at $129 with shipping and the obvious import and vat charges two words came to mind
But I had notice that the unit looked very familiar it' only a food dehydrator, so a quick search on Thingiverse found this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2669646 and then I came across this on Amazon for £23 posted.
and after a bit of file tweaking and printing I now own a filament dryer that cost around 50p a day to run
I may even design it to take a thrust bearing and spool holder so it can run while I'm printing.
I ordered a roll of Real-Filament Shifting Blue, I'm currently working on a new 3D printer build and liked the look of the colour, unfortunately it cannot be printed over 220c even though they state 245c as a recommended, if I go above 220c the filament gets air bubbles in it, I'm guess it's a reaction from the silver particles in it. Problem is at 220c the parts have no tensile strength
I've contacted Amazon and they have accepted a return and refunded me so at least I'm not out of pocket.
Question is what filament should I get for structural parts on a 3D printer.
This is something I've been thinking about and I can't seem to work it out.
So if you have 2 lead screws to raise Z but you only want to use one motor, then it's obvious you need to run the lead screws via a belt and pulley system.
How on earth do you work out the steps?
Which type of motor?
Required to give good hold torque and good step resolution?
Just wondering what everyone else is using?
I've been using Simplify3d for about 2 years now, I've recently tried the latest Cura and Kiss, Cura works well a lot better than a few years ago, Kiss I'm finding quirky but I still find myself using S3D.
My Kossel just runs straight from the duet3d controller, sometimes I run it via the web browser.
The i3 I control from Repetier host using g-code created in S3D.
April 13, 2018, 05:07:42 am
I'm a huge advocate of flexible filaments and getting something soft like Ninjaflex to print flawlessly was one of my primary goals 18 months back. Unfortunately Ninjaflex comes at a premium cost meaning having several colours isn't always an option for some (me being one ) So when I came across FlexiSMART I thought I'd give it a try.
FlexiSMART is a TPE filament with a shore hardness of 88A; softer than something like Sainsmart TPU, but not as soft as Ninjaflex with a shore hardness of 85A although it's very close. As I'm able to print Ninjaflex with no difficulty I was confident that I'd get instant results with FlexiSMART and I wasn't wrong, my first test print was a 3DBenchy and it came off almost perfect
I print flexible filaments on to PrintBite @ 40°c and ran the FlexiSMART @ 220°c
FFFWorld FlexiSMART Guide