This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Topics - Bad Raven
I have come across a range of files on Thingiverse that currently I am unable to print as they will not slice correctly.
Slicer shows some minor lost points causing triangular artefacts inside the object. (It is also stating it is correcting thousands of errors, too)
When printed on the i3 Mk3 all sorts of errors appear, internal angled planes, more than shown, solid parts where there should be holes surrounded by holes where there should be solid, etc.
Cura appears to slice OK with no error report and visually OK, but despite being set to i3 and PLA, insists on trying to start print with a bed temp of 40 and an extruder temp of 0 in the settings side and an actual not yet at the right level, starting while it is still heating up. If this is overwritten by manual tuning at the printer, it starts print at the manual settings, but does no bed level check, nor any pre-stripe (OK, its set for a generic i3), but then starts the print off with much greater filament extrusion rate so larger cross section than usual and extremely poor bed adhesion (despite now being manually set to and at the right temp for the filament).
Taking the visually correct and supposedly error corrected file out of Cura and into Slicer still shows the errors that were there before when direct to Slicer.
Not something maybe to spend much more time over, but it staggers me how a relatively simple model (it is a box shaped pitch roof "house" with holes for windows and doors, nothing at all exotic, can be so comprehensively screwed up by Slicer programs!
I got the guy to re-upload a second version of one file he'd checked sliced and printed. Still thousands of errors "corrected" and an unusable result in Slic3rPE.
Have only had similar once before, one which I could not resolve.
I'm now as I write trying from the original file posted using Repetier Host (which is using Cura) without ANY error correction before or notified and so far it appears to be printing it OK on the Fab II Mini, it certainly showed no artefacts on loading the file in. It has got way above the level where errors showed, and so far no problem.
SO, why is SlicerPE, Slic3r AND Cura when used standalone creating so many "errors" and solving things that are not there, when good old Repetier with its Cura version just plods away and does the job??
Over 500 Printers running in the production farm.
Over 320 employees
Over 1000 packages leave the factory every day (inc Filament, Upgrades, MMU, etc)
Over 6000 printers sent out a month
25% of printer production time spent on Checking/Quality Control/Heat Soaking, etc.
Wonder how that compares to other makes?
Yes, I know, boring..................
I have no problems with getting adhesion when printing.............. except when the object needs a lot of supports, when at a late stage in the print it only too frequently releases cleanly off the bed.
I'm on the Prusa Mk3 using Slic3rPE and PLA, and it does not seem to make any difference on using any of the preset print settings.
Anything avoiding supports seems to work fine.
Any tips/constructive thoughts please?
You may know that the Mk3 Prusa came with a spring steel bedplate which is covered both sides with a PEI "sticker" sheet. More recently the much vaunted powder coated bed plates have started to appear on new purchases but I do not have that.
I have the older type, which has been excellent. I taped one side with blue tape (Hobbyking sheet) for PETG and kept the other for PLA.
This worked well.
I then recently decided to remove the blue tape and use that side bare PEI for PLA. Obviously I took great care to remove any adhesive and cleaned up with acetone and then IPA.
And, the adhesion was rubbish. Several repeat treatments later, still rubbish, so I recovered it with a new PEI sheet and it was fine again.
So, did the tape covering, it's adhesive, or the constant heating that side affect it? Something did!
, even if accidentally!
I have some HKing Flex filament. I was having trouble finding the right settings for it, with both stringing and erratic layering evident on various Flex presets and with my "tuning" attempts.
Then I made a mistake, and gcoded something intended for Flex as PLA. And it printed superbly well with no loss of flex strength.
I think it must be, but that does not help resolve the issue I have now bumped up against a couple of times.
Most recently I fancied building a 3D printed plane, and yes I know it will be stupid hours run and likely fall apart, but hey, a man's got to do, etc.
And I have again tripped over the same matter as with some other files.
The plane (as an example) is this one:-
I have asked the owner of the model and await a reply, but the issue I have (and with other models) is that the designer does not give detail on infill settings. This one is stated as most parts 0,25 layer high, canopy 0,1mm. But no mention of infill other than for one part at 50%. If all of it was 50% it would too heavy to lift off!
Someone has said that they failed to print OK as the slicing failed to give the right pattern infill, and the designer thinks it is a Slic3r issue. No further detail on exactly what though.
I have downloaded the latest Cura but both it and Slic3r default to 20% infill, so its not specifically a Slic3r issue.
So, here we get to my meagre knowledge limit.................
1. How can you tell what infill % or pattern to set if you are not told, is it buried to see in the .stl somewhere?
2. If the guy uses Cura, and states use 0,25 layer height, which I assume is 0.25mm, why does Cura step from 0.2 to 0.3, as does Slic3r, with no 0.25 to choose?
The most annoying thing so far I have come across is the strong likelihood that .stl parts in an archive obtained from (say) Thingiverse will display at wildly differing sizes, and it seems extremely difficult to get them back to matching scale.
An example of differing scale IN THE SAME DOWNLOAD is the 2 Fast 2 Furious GTR R34. This loads to have the body to a WAY smaller scale than the wheels.
Me No Understandee!
September 23, 2018, 08:29:29 pm
Message from Jo Prusa today
I've been preparing for this weekend for a long time, and now it's finally here. We have prepared two exciting announcements for the World Maker Faire in New York and now I can finally tell you more about our long-awaited in-house made filament and also about a new printer - Original Prusa SL1!
INTRODUCING ORIGINAL PRUSA SL1 OPEN SOURCE SLA 3D PRINTER BY JOSEF PRUSA
Resin 3D printing was always done at premium prices and by big corporations. We may not wear suits, but we have an incredible amount of new ideas and we are willing to work our asses off, which is something corporations usually lack.
The SL1 isn't trying to compete with the flimsy Photon or with the ultra-pricey Form but instead I want it to be the MK3 of the resin world - have the best print quality, convenient design and features, ease of use and other things, while keep a price accessible for an everyday hobby maker.
• Extremely accurate 3D prints: Featuring a high-resolution 5.5'' LCD display and silent trinamic drivers, SL1 is able to reach a minimum layer height of 0.01 mm. With the recommended layer height of 0.025-0.01 mm and print area size of 120 x 68 x 150 mm (or 4.7 × 2.6 × 5.9 in.), you can print more detailed objects than ever before.
• User friendly and reliable: Built around a rigid dural frame with a separate body, SL1 offers highly reliable printing. Removable resin tank with a FEP film and motorized tilt prevents layer shifts and stirs the resin. Thanks to the automatic calibration feature, you will need to calibrate the printer only once.
• Low running costs and advanced safety mechanisms: SL1 is compatible with third-party resins. The flexible FEP bottom of the resin tank can be replaced and the whole process is quick, easy and cheap. Thanks to a number of safety features, such as resin level sensor, power panic, vapor extraction or a protective membrane shielding the electronics, the SL1 is perfect for new users.
• Plenty of smart features and connectivity options: Control the printer using a full-color LCD touchscreen or via a web browser thanks to Wi-fi and LAN connectivity. Slicing models for printing is also easy - SL1 is fully compatible with our Slic3r Prusa Edition slicing software. Printed models can be further processed in Curing and Washing machine (sold separately)
• Developed by an experienced team: Earlier this year we acquired a Czech company Futur3D specializing in resin printing - and their exceptional team joined us at Prusa HQ, bringing over 5 years of experience in this field with them, so we can make the SL1 really awesome right from the start.
THE BEST FILAMENT THAT YOU CAN INSPECT YOURSELF
When we manufacture our printers at Prusa Research, we have everything under our control, except for one thing - and that's the filament. We haven't been satisfied with the quality standards of the current filament production. To make a long story short, since last year we've been building a filament factory and perfecting our own in-house filament: Prusament! So let's dive into some details on how we do things differently.
• Manufactured in-house: Whenever you heard about the "Prusa filament", it always referred to a product made for us by an external company (it is a common practice for all printer manufacturers). However, the new Prusament is manufactured in the very same building as our Original Prusa i3 3D printers. Five filament production lines now take up one whole floor of our factory!
• Premium-grade materials and thorough testing: It's difficult to produce a single high-quality spool, but it's much more difficult to retain a consistent quality in mass production. The whole process is closely monitored and everything is properly tested - string diameter, color consistency, and mechanical properties - to make sure that every spool that leaves our factory is perfect. And you should see our filament winding!
• ±0.02 mm manufacturing precision: Most filament manufacturers use a ±0.05 mm diameter tolerance when producing 1.75mm filaments. It looks like a tiny number, but we must not forget that this kind of deviation can in its extreme values increase or decrease the expected flow rate by 11.4 %. We decided to set our own manufacturing precision standards, so all our filaments spools are manufactured with ±0.02 mm precision!
• Quality you can check yourself: We offer you the option to inspect the properties of every manufactured spool. Just take your cell phone and take a picture of the QR code on the box, or enter the spool ID on Prusament.com website. We will show you the maximum deviation of your filament, its standard deviation value and ovality. Plus, you can check the diameter data visualized using a graph. Take a look at sample spool!
• Oh, and one more thing - Prusament will be also available on Amazons around the world within a month because we know that shipping from Prague to the rest of the world can be a bit expensive :)
Since there was some comment with regards marbles dimensions I thought I'd pull this into a separate thread which might be helpful to builders.
Going back into history (and some I have had for maybe as far back as 60 years) they seem to be in two sizes. Whereas older ones are usually clear glass with one or two twist colour through, the newer ones seem to be white glass with three colour red/blue/yellow twist.
These sizes appear to have been maintained through to current production, as I have just opened a pack from:-
PlayWrite, Super Marbles, London, EC2A 3PN, part number No 310-041, barcode 5 016064 006259, bought recently by wife for grandson from a "£1 shop" for 69p, containing 15 standard and one large.
The sizes equate to 16mm and 25mm, or 5/8" and 1". A 15mm ball bearing looks noticeably smaller than 5/8th (as it should!)
Hope this helps.
SO, as far as I'm concerned, a "marble" 3D print that does not take 5/8th diameter is not a marble toy........................ innit....................
I now have quite a selection of colours in PLA for my two printers, but have been seeking some that are proving difficult to source.
I even recently had quite a lot of difficulty sourcing "flesh" at below ridiculous price and overseas source, a shade I'd have expected to be common as muck!
Bottom Line Question - Is there anyone in UK that markets Pantone number shaded filament please?
Sub Question - As a first need, anyone know of a supplier for Terra Cotta shaded 1.75 PLA in the UK?
I appreciate that Pantone matched stuff will be relatively expensive but the only sources I'm finding are in the USA and carriage is more than £20 a reel!!!!
I picked up a model to print, but I need it much smaller than original, around 20%.
One part is basically an open topped box. Scaled down, three sides print well at OK thickness and detail, but the fourth is a few strings where the side panel should be with some thicker detail just showing.
OK, here's the story.
Thingiverse .stl file. It printed on the Fab II via Repetier Host after generation in two pieces (meshmix) due small bed size.
Loaded original file into Prusa Control, looks OK, is visually zero'd on bed onscreen.
Generate .gcode, generates without errors.
SD card into Mk3.
Prints starts with test line OK, but then extruder is sitting maybe 5mm high and while tracing the right path does not emit filament at all.
Printer runs other files afterwards perfectly, so def the file, but since the visual model on screen sits in the right place on the bed, what can I do to correct please?
No build log here, just a few comments along the way of building mine.
As I write, the mechanics are completed (Well, I think, apart from the stupid "afterthought" feet which will be changed!!) and awaiting a start on the electrics/electronics, possibly tonight.
Overall impression so far is quite good, and the manual and online manual/instructions with comments from builders has been very helpful.
I went wrong at one point due to my own stupidity and a less than clear picture, fairly quickly realised, and corrected.
Two extant "issues" so far:-
1. One of the extruder cover screws will not tighten as its hole was oversize (needs correction but TBH is unlikely to cause anything if left). Many fixings have captive nuts, some square, some hex, but some have machine screws being used as self tappers into plastic, not actually correct engineering practice.
2. The idea of placing a nylon support filament into the wiring loom from the extruder as strain relief is OK, but their push in, friction only method of holding it at the extruder end is frankly rubbish, made worse by the fact that the nylon supplied to me is around 1.5mm larger than the hole, so will NOT fit. Really quite a bad drop off, I assume that nobody checked the filament properly on supply.
As you only reach this point once the extruder body is assembled, its not obvious then if you have the space around the hole to open it up. Lots of negative comment here from builders, and rightly so. Small issue but big frustration.
Apart from that and considering that all the plastic parts are 3D printed on Prusa printers, its quite an accurate set of parts and so far so good.
OK, still existing with only my FabII Mini, I have found that PETG is giving the best results for the items I need to print.
It's not stringing more than minimally, and is producing strong good looking models.
So what's the problem?
That there seems to be a limited availability of colours, and a high proportion within that availability of transparent colours.
So far I have only bought budget stuff. The thought of paying over £20 for 1.75mm 1kg reels is somewhat off putting when you don't know the actual print quality you will get from the on your setup.
So far I have:-
Budget HobbyKing White
HobbyKing Premium in Sky, Clear and Transparent Yellow.
A lot of the supposed stockists with easy UK supply seem to claim they have stocks they do not. Whether this is the surge of interest in 3D print or just bad stock management. Black, white, grey and maybe red seems to be "it" from many places.
So, any sources out there please?
I'm particularly keen to get Brown, Gold, Orange (not flouro)? Any source for PETG users can recommend?
Have I missed a section for Forum Website matters?
The Avatar I use without issues in the Multi Forum will not load here.
Been using Esun PLA filament for a while now, red and purple as that was all HK had in UK at the time. Very satisfactory.
Later added Silver, all I could get after getting the stock warning and managing to get online. also very satisfactory.
Got another back in stock warning, so ordered blue, green, black and yellow.
Used yellow and blue. Very satisfactory as others.
Yesterday used the green, or tried to. Horrendous bed adhesion, high shrinkage during print lifting raft. Very granular. Poor adhesion anyway, colour is weird (a very blue tinted "green"), its more translucent than any of the others, not managed a single OK test print, using settings that work perfectly for the other colours OR experimental away from that. Verified that the printer still OK on the other colours.
Going to claim (wish me luck!) but be warned, this is not down to me, looks and feels like a bad batch!
OK, so what is people's favourite glue for sticking PLA printed sections, and why please?
Repetier Host running through Cura as integrated slicer tool into FabII Mini.
I have suddenly lost the visual clues needed for operation.
I can no longer see the sliced image before printing.
I can no longer see the model "build" on screen as the commands flood across to the printer. (it still prints OK).
I had also lost the display of the item to be printed, was only getting its frame. Slicer page would not show slices, but was showing movement tracks when selected.
Repetier ON A RE-LOAD is now showing the model, but also saying my trial period of Pro features is over so I suppose its that?
Anyone tried this??
School has a "new" 3D printer I have never seen as a Teacher has it "locked away" and not even any of the other teachers get a look in (seen nothing come from it yet either.............. ). I'm also told they have ordered another. No idea what.
OK, to point. Apparently "some time ago" they bought a printer which no-one got working reliably. It sits looking forlorn on a shelf in the DT Tech's workshop gathering dust.
Working from a look over and then that evening internet trawl, it's a RepRapPro Mendel. 4 miles of studding, hundreds of nuts, more stepping motors than you can shake a stick at, and a bed that to me looks far too flexible. A glass plate has been added.
I'm told that when it actually stays focussed (!) it produces a good print, but it has a tendency to stop printing terminally with line after line of code flying nowhere. If they were printing from PC as I suspect the school IT have an awful reputation for producing machinery that James Watt or Richard Trevithick would have surpassed on speed and reliability with ease, so even a better source must help!
It seems a waste not to get it sorted, or is it a hopeless case? The main cct card sits fully exposed to one side and there are wires everywhere inc to a none too professional looking PSU, so a serious tidy up and shielding might help? Maybe a more stable PSU if its one now has proven as iffy as it looks? As might other/newer firmware? (I have no idea what it has now).
Any useful comments? Do I bother or just leave it sat on the shelf, no teacher is ever going to bother with it.